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Gallery of War

Page 5

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Kalakaua Av.
Waikiki Beach, Hawaii 1968
Archival Print #H-W105RK
(c)2003 L. Nollenberger

I waited at the bus stop on Kalakaua Av. for the bus out to Pearl. This was a true surfer's paradise. An old car putted down the street topped with a load of surfboards. Just for a moment my mind wandered back to Ca. and riding the waves at Haggertys and the Cove. If only I had my board. For here were some of the greatest waves on earth. This was the home of Wiamea Bay and the Pipeline. I had surfed back home with Greg N.and Dewey W. Some of the best in the business back in those days. Greg had been caught on film at Wiamea on one of the biggest waves ever recorded in history. Some say it was no less than 50 feet high. He wiped out but lived to tell the tale of how his heart nearly stopped as five tons of white water came crashing down on his head. His poster of that ride was still taped to the wall of my bedroom back home. The bus came and I was off to Pearl.